Subtraction Cutting Workshop

On Wednesday, we as a class, split into pairs and between our pairs created a half scale dress all of which followed the same process but each had a different outcome. The pattern cutting process we followed was a new technique known as 'subtraction cutting' and 'tunnel method'.

Julian Roberts is the man behind the creativity of this innovative new process and he has shown that with experimentation, it can create some beautiful silhouettes on all areas of the body. It is a process that is hard to realise at first, but with visual aids, it all becomes clear.


HOW?

A front and back bodice block is needed and also a pattern of a circumference circle of the widest part of the body. Two lengths of contrasting fabrics (for a more creative visual) are to be cut at least 40cm wide and 100cm long (for half scale). These measurements can be greater depending on the wanted outcome.

A sack is made from the fabric by stitching three of the four sides together. The front and back bodice are traced out onto the fabric with the shoulder seams facing each other. Lines are drawn to join the underarm seams together. The empty space is then cut away from the top layer.

For every tunnel in the dress, two circles must be cut away and the raw edges are sewn together from the inside of the dress. When stitched, these then create the tunnels that will go over the body. The front and back bodices are sewn together from the underarm to the end of the opening.

The lining is then stitched together down the sides and slipped over the dress with right sides together. Shoulder seams are sewn together, armholes are sewn together front to back and front and back neck seams are also sewn shut. The dress is then turned the right way round and the lining must go through the tunnels so that they would go around the body and the hem overlocked together.

THOUGHTS?

I really enjoyed this technique as it was unusual and very innovative. What I liked most about the 'tunnel technique' and subtraction cutting was that the final outcome was to be a mystery as each turned out completely different with only minor differences between the layouts of the bodice pieces and circumference circles. With experimentation of this technique, I think the outcome could become more predicted with a greater knowledge of what results the placement of the tunnels create.

I would very much like to experiment more with this and also with the shape of the tunnels as Roberts states that as long as the circumference is large enough, the shape can be anything. Even at this early stage in my project, I feel that I would like to incorporate this form of cutting in my designs.